The city, which is not really on the tourist route, has a population of about 100k. It has 54 stepwells, steps that lead down and down and down to a well; we visited the largest, which has a depth of 53 metres. They used to be the source of all water in the city, but have been superceded by mains supply. Apparently, their efficacy is all about the groundwater status which is reducing as the population is increasing.
Then a visit to the hill-bound palace, last occupied in 1950. Some of the wall paintings, 400 years old, are exquisite. The hotel is another mansion house converted into an hotel. This one has a luxurious courtyard. Architecture wins, but the constricted noisy streets don’t make this a favourite place; Kath, however, loves the market.
Train at 8pm to catch the sleeper to Mumbai.