Tag: history

Chicago return & home

Flew into Chicago, bought three day travel passes like experienced travellers (second visit), & found out Cyrille Aimee, famous French Jazz singer, playing in town; of course we went. Her set was a bit MOR, but she’s about to produce another generation. Her range is impressive, as was her pianist.

We’re staying at The Millennium Knickerbocker hotel, just off the Magnificent Mile, so called due to Michigan Avenue having all the best fashion shops (Kath informs me). This hotel is a fine example of Art Deco architecture, looking rather sad as it awaits serious reinvestment. The interior of the entrance area is superb, the building listed for historical retention. We loved it. Of course we did.

Penultimate day – spent four hours at the huge Chicago Institute of Art & covered about half of the displays. Last night meant a visit to Chicago Blues, another of the city’s famous blues venues. The Sheryl Youngblood Blues Band was great, as was the venue, but after an hour we capitulated.

Last day was given to Chicago zoo, a really well laid out series of displays in Lincoln Park. The park has a prominent statue of a famous president, not infamous ….

Home time, leaving Chicago at 01.00 (gmt), we’re due to arrive at Tenby station at 15.35 in full sunshine. We started in Chicago just over three weeks ago with 25 degrees sunshine which over the four days we were first there turned to snowing as we left. As we journeyed south so, of course, it became hotter; in New Orleans it was consistently over 25 degrees. Our return visit to Chicago was met with 5 to 10 degrees. And three violent storms, one Chicagoan, one Nashvillean (with siren warning people not to go out for an hour), one Orlean with twister warnings in some neighbouring areas, makes me wonder why many in USA choose to ignore climate change. But it is a very divided country, with many having comfortable lives but so many having nothing, grateful for a warm, under cover place to sleep. Not a caring environment. However, nearly everyone we met was so friendly, a lasting impression.

Nashville to Memphis

Part of this journey was along the Natches Trace (National Park), an ancient Indian trail. Stopped in Leipers Fork, an upmarket outlier satellite of Nashville for brunch, incl. biscuits with gravy – not quite as bad as it sounds. In Memphis, we’re staying in an historic house which is about 200 years old. Opposite is a beautiful memorial to the civil riots of the 60s in which Dr Martin Luther King was assasinated.

MARTIN LUTHER KING MEMORIALIN MEMPHIS

The Blues legend that is Beale Street: it all seems a bit empty, a bit run down. We went to BB King’s Club on our first night, had ourselves some good ol’ southern fry, watched an unimpressive, ultra smooth concert from a soul band & moved on to other gigs in other venues, of which there were many. On our second day we went to the STAX exhibition at their former studios. Great experience of what the label went through in its brief, highly successful 1960s to 70s run. Followed that up with another comfort food lunch in a famous comfort food restaurant. I think we’re all tiring of fried fare. Walked in the afternoon to Memphis’s pyramid.

MEMPHIS PYRAMID

The viewing platform near the top, partly with glass panelled flooring, was good for views down the Mississippi & disconcertion, otherwise a huge space given over to an hotel, restaurants &, mostly, men outdoor sports seems even more irrelevant to real world needs. After long walk back, a calm visit to the Dominíck’s distillery was even keeling time. The youngsters of our troupe joined us, then proceeded to go through a flight of bourbons. We left them to experience a contemporary Chinese dinner in a young persons’ restaurant/cocktail bar. The food was superb & a welcome escape from fried catfish or chicken. Last of the day was spent moving around not busy Beales Street venues, with some blues some not, live music.

Memphis to Clarksdale