Part of this journey was along the Natches Trace (National Park), an ancient Indian trail. Stopped in Leipers Fork, an upmarket outlier satellite of Nashville for brunch, incl. biscuits with gravy – not quite as bad as it sounds. In Memphis, we’re staying in an historic house which is about 200 years old. Opposite is a beautiful memorial to the civil riots of the 60s in which Dr Martin Luther King was assasinated.

The Blues legend that is Beale Street: it all seems a bit empty, a bit run down. We went to BB King’s Club on our first night, had ourselves some good ol’ southern fry, watched an unimpressive, ultra smooth concert from a soul band & moved on to other gigs in other venues, of which there were many. On our second day we went to the STAX exhibition at their former studios. Great experience of what the label went through in its brief, highly successful 1960s to 70s run. Followed that up with another comfort food lunch in a famous comfort food restaurant. I think we’re all tiring of fried fare. Walked in the afternoon to Memphis’s pyramid.

The viewing platform near the top, partly with glass panelled flooring, was good for views down the Mississippi & disconcertion, otherwise a huge space given over to an hotel, restaurants &, mostly, men outdoor sports seems even more irrelevant to real world needs. After long walk back, a calm visit to the Dominíck’s distillery was even keeling time. The youngsters of our troupe joined us, then proceeded to go through a flight of bourbons. We left them to experience a contemporary Chinese dinner in a young persons’ restaurant/cocktail bar. The food was superb & a welcome escape from fried catfish or chicken. Last of the day was spent moving around not busy Beales Street venues, with some blues some not, live music.

Memphis to Clarksdale