Despite ever worsening WiFi, Indoors has succeeded in booking a three night stay on the island of Cebaco. This was a recommendation of the owners of Coffee Mountain Inn. Our American family next door gave us a lift to Santiago, from where we caught a bus to Marieto, a taxi to Playa Reina, a boat to the island. We arrived to find we are the only guests tonight. Lamb chop for lunch, ceviche at 6pm, langoustines (turns out as lobster) at 8pm. Some desert island! Snorkelling tomorrow, though just watching the crab activity on the beach is mind consuming enough.

The next day is not snorkelling, but chillin’ out; again, we are the only residents.

Early morning swim abruptly halted by Indoors being stung by a ray. 2½ hrs of hot water soaking to extract poison and nursing advice from mainland later and she’s ok again. Reminded her of what became of Ray Mears. She unimpressed!

Late night talk with Bernardo reveals he and his brother run this hotel on the island, with initial support from their dad. They all moved to Panama from Columbia some 15 years ago. The hotel has been running just over one year, after which they know they can shut in October and November as ‘down months’. Cebaco is the third largest of Panama’s islands and has a resident population of about 300, with a further 100 with second homes here. So not really a desert island, though not sure how you find anyone else here.

Being the only guests is a strange, privileged, feeling.

Another group has joined us the next morning – mum, dad, dad’s dad and two young children. Different dynamic to the stay, but charming kids. All due to go snorkelling tomorrow morning – could be revealing. Tried my snorkelling kit out in preparation and the strap on the goggles snapped – the rubber has perished. So checked out the flippers, anyway. They work.

Discovered there is wine on the island, which accompanied our second lobster dinner.

Great rain attack, it felt like that, as a tropical weather front passed over. No shortage of water here ….

Returning to reality after snorkelling tomoz, with stay at Playa Reina hotel, landside of this island. Hope to find a reasonable WiFi service there so blog can be uploaded again. Then we’re bussing to Bouquete ….

The snorkelling trip was ok, but the sea had a swell, so all boating was a little more than envisaged. Went to a tiny island at the southern tip of Cebaco, white sand loads a rocks, but under water some coral and many fishes, crabs, urchins. Was OK. On the way back, however, we were stopped for about 15 minutes by a nasty looking crew of six sea police patrol. They were looking for drugs. Couldn’t understand why they were making such a big deal of it: was reminded afterwards by Bernardo that he’s Columbian.

Then we came across a pod of bottle nosed dolphins. Delightful. We were delivered back to the mainland to stay in the Hotel Playa del Raina, which is chilled & more restful than the island’s pitch black environment. How strange to find light comforting when you want to go to sleep.

The heart of Panama

Came to Santa Fe on Monday, 4,000 metres up, next to the Santa Fe National Park and the Continental Divide.

Last night and this morning we had two guided walks into the mountain jungle forests; have seen all manner of strange beasts, incl red eyed and many other sorts of frog, grasshoppers, vultures, humming birds, flutterbys, frigate birds etc. And two jungle waterfalls, after a lot of muddy scrambling.

And visited the only coffee co-operative in Panama. They make and drink their coffee in this country! And it’s very good.

Dinner with family of three Californians (dad and grown up son and daughter), staying in next room at Coffee Mountain Inn, at the Cambodian restaurant around the corner. Great view over the mountains at the back, the food was rather awesome, though the ordering went a bit askew. Special highlight was the flying beetle doing circuits of the restaurant, promptly followed by a bat chasing supper. One of the diners screamed and jumped off her chair.

The real story is that of the proprietor, a beautiful 25 year old Cambodian who started the restaurant eight years ago with her Dutch partner. He left some four years ago. So, with her sister whom she summoned from Cambodia, she runs this restaurant, in this tiny mountain village which is only busy for the three high season months from Christmas to Easter. And to have a meal, you have to book a table by 2pm. What is to become of her?

Tomorrow, we’re down to sea level and off to the island of Cebaco, without broadband. You may not be hearing from us for a few days …..

Island Life

Continue reading “In the Mountains” →

Indoors wanted a cycle ride along the Amador Causeway, a link from the eastern side of the mouth to the canal that joins up with three islands. The causeway was made out of the rock that came out of the canal’s excavations. So we made the journey, passing again the Biomuseum, in a (Indoor choice) metal chariot-type two-pedalling thang, could be alternatively called land pedalo, I suppose. After 90 minutes of inefficient travel, we handed back the keys and left. Not to be repeated (by me, anyway).

I wanted to visit Panama City’s only micro brewery pub, so after taking a bus to the city’s main bus station – that’s where the bus was going – we spent the next two hours experiencing the city’s brand new underground train and various locals’ opinions but, eventually, we found Istmo Brew Bar. Much refreshed, we hailed another Uber to take us ‘home’, leaving my so special Panama Hat made in Ecuador given to me by my youngest dottir. We’ve asked them to hang on to it until our return at the end of the month, but as yet await confirmation. Sorry, Phoebe!

And then we went to previously booked Maito restaurant. Flash, expensive, superb food. We had two courses and two bottles of their almost cheapest white wine (no wines are made in Panama, so most come from Chile). And as we walked in so we walked out. After paying the bill, of course.

Nearly everyone in Panama City with money drives a car; indeed the whole transport structure is designed around car driving, as are all the tower blocks, with the lowest five or so floors dedicated to parking. Unless you don’t have enough money for that, in which case you use the excellent bus services, which cost almost nothing and are everywhere. Then there are taxis, too, all honking for your business, all with negotiable taxi fares. There is, most recently, the latest effort to change that rut, the new underground train – one line, 25 stops.

Back to Maito: we arrived by foot – it is 11 mins walk from our hotel – to convince the car park security guards  – there are security guards for everything, even empty property – that we had a reservation. If they had spoken any English they would like to have interrogated us, but confused, they let us through. Both in and out.

In the Mountains