Pudu (French) or Pondi (Indian) cherry, is the Indian French Riviera, about 160 kms south of Chennai. After being the French HQ in India for centuries, it was handed over to The East India Trading Company before being repatriated to the Indian state in 1954. So half of the city is French built & half Indian. Different from any other Indian city, it oozes charm from a wide range of restaurants, cafes and bars.
Our first day includes a visit on the way. Mahabalipuram’s historic sites include five carvings of temples from one massive piece of granite; another stone phenomenon of a giant ball seemingly about to roll downwards crushing all before – it’s been like this for hundreds of years, despite the Brits trying to pull it down using five elephants in the 1940’s; a small fort looking out over the nearby estuary, lake & ocean; and another ancient stone temple which survived the 2004 tsunami while all about it was flattened. Special place heh? And now it’s overrun by tourism.

Our first night in Pondi doesn’t include much food as our guide & driver took us to a transport cafe type restaurant just after 3pm to be met with mounds of food, with equally remarkable prices. Instead we visited a live concert in the French Arts complex, featuring a very talented French guitarist/singer, Geoffrey Grenier, accompanied by a tablas player. Imagine sung versions of The Doors, Cream et al & you’re there. But he managed to pull it off – we even stayed for the whole one hour set. We then tuk-tukd to the Catermaran craft brewery, yep craft brewery, where we were almost bowled over by how good the beer was & how busy they were. And how uninhibited alcohol-inspired locals’ Bollywood copy dancing could be!
Our second Pondi day started with a visit to Auroville, a settlement developed by Mirra Alphasa, aka The Mother, in the 1950s to provide an international base for spiritual personal learning & collaboration. The complex features a futuristic globe, the Matrimandir, for contemplation. It looks like it might have been on the set of The Prisoner.

Next was a visit in the town centre to the ashram of Sri Aurobindo, developed from about 1910. This place is famous, so I was informed, & we even spent 20 minutes there with our guide who seemed to take it a lot more seriously than we did. He also stayed in the Roman Catholic church, for their service, after we had all visited various exhibitions & outside galleries. We, meanwhile moved on, ending up in The Spot restaurant built out of a former colonial residence, complete with courtyard. A fine meal & various beverages later, the world seemed less pressured.