Yesterday was Lodi Gardens, with ancient unused mosques, thousands of screaming schoolchildren, chipmunks galore and a gallery of fat geese. On our way there we passed the entrance to Claridges Hotel, its security included a boot and under the car check. We also visited Raj Ghat, where Gandhi was cremated, and Safdarjang’s Tomb, with a grand mosque, unused, and two Taj Mahal style pools, one at each end. Finally, a visit to The Lotus Temple, one of Delhi’s latest holy buildings and completed in 1986. Another queue to gain entrance, but this is a truly beautiful building, a temple for the Baha’i.
A beer turned into a meal at Unplugged, a venue known for its musical performances, not for the drink or food. That was our last visit to Connacht Square, a circle really. Built by Edward Lutyens in the early 20th Century to celebrate the British Empire. This is the centre of New Delhi, the capital of India, as opposed to the rest of Delhi that is Old Delhi and lies all around the new part. A last gin in The Crossroads Inn, at the corner of our hotel’s street, because, well you’d have to, wouldn’t you.
Today was Republic Day, which meant much quieter traffic this morning. We visited the Garden of Five Senses, with metal, stone and ceramic sculptures and hundreds of very young no touch canoodlers. Before we left we tasted a vegetarian curry platter for two – superb. Returned via a long walk in a scrappy wood in Hauz Khas (pronounced Hoyse Karz), which if we’d found the right bit would have felt a like Hampstead market on a weekend, apparently.
Met the group on our tour this evening – fascinating mix of Canadians, USAians, Brits and, mostly, Australians. Apart from our charming guide, Prado, there’s just two blokes, incl me, and 12 females. Going to be tough.
Toughest was the non-alcoholicness of Republic Day. Thankfully, despite a 5am departure for the train to Agra, home of the Taj, tomorrow reverts to normal service.
So what are our thoughts so far on India? Huge vultures flying overhead, not unlike Panama City. Hordes of underused staff, everywhere, do not make for efficiency, or even particularly good service. Queueing is required for so many entry points, eg transport and attractions, yet the locals are pushing, shoving, bargeing to get past you whenever they can; for that they are impolite. Beneath that, they are actually charming and delighted to impart their local knowledge to assist you.
The metro is superb, the vehicle wars on the roads carnage; except they don’t seem to have that many accidents. And when there is huge demand for the metro, there is still just one security clearance entry, so that the queue goes down to the street, round the corner and on and on. They’re not the best at marketing themselves. Although they do wear, turbans and clothes, the most brilliant colours.
And perhaps the least expected, everyone stares at Kath. The school kids ask for selfies with her, she must have completed at least 20, some with as many as six kids in the photo. Even the adults stare. They are not used to seeing non-Indians, obviously, but white haired people, what is going on?
Chris & Kath's Travel Time 