Island Life

Despite ever worsening WiFi, Indoors has succeeded in booking a three night stay on the island of Cebaco. This was a recommendation of the owners of Coffee Mountain Inn. Our American family next door gave us a lift to Santiago, from where we caught a bus to Marieto, a taxi to Playa Reina, a boat to the island. We arrived to find we are the only guests tonight. Lamb chop for lunch, ceviche at 6pm, langoustines (turns out as lobster) at 8pm. Some desert island! Snorkelling tomorrow, though just watching the crab activity on the beach is mind consuming enough.

The next day is not snorkelling, but chillin’ out; again, we are the only residents.

Early morning swim abruptly halted by Indoors being stung by a ray. 2½ hrs of hot water soaking to extract poison and nursing advice from mainland later and she’s ok again. Reminded her of what became of Ray Mears. She unimpressed!

Late night talk with Bernardo reveals he and his brother run this hotel on the island, with initial support from their dad. They all moved to Panama from Columbia some 15 years ago. The hotel has been running just over one year, after which they know they can shut in October and November as ‘down months’. Cebaco is the third largest of Panama’s islands and has a resident population of about 300, with a further 100 with second homes here. So not really a desert island, though not sure how you find anyone else here.

Being the only guests is a strange, privileged, feeling.

Another group has joined us the next morning – mum, dad, dad’s dad and two young children. Different dynamic to the stay, but charming kids. All due to go snorkelling tomorrow morning – could be revealing. Tried my snorkelling kit out in preparation and the strap on the goggles snapped – the rubber has perished. So checked out the flippers, anyway. They work.

Discovered there is wine on the island, which accompanied our second lobster dinner.

Great rain attack, it felt like that, as a tropical weather front passed over. No shortage of water here ….

Returning to reality after snorkelling tomoz, with stay at Playa Reina hotel, landside of this island. Hope to find a reasonable WiFi service there so blog can be uploaded again. Then we’re bussing to Bouquete ….

The snorkelling trip was ok, but the sea had a swell, so all boating was a little more than envisaged. Went to a tiny island at the southern tip of Cebaco, white sand loads a rocks, but under water some coral and many fishes, crabs, urchins. Was OK. On the way back, however, we were stopped for about 15 minutes by a nasty looking crew of six sea police patrol. They were looking for drugs. Couldn’t understand why they were making such a big deal of it: was reminded afterwards by Bernardo that he’s Columbian.

Then we came across a pod of bottle nosed dolphins. Delightful. We were delivered back to the mainland to stay in the Hotel Playa del Raina, which is chilled & more restful than the island’s pitch black environment. How strange to find light comforting when you want to go to sleep.

The heart of Panama

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